The dark skies gathering in the distance over Havana may have looked ominous but I didn’t worry. I had a free day – some delicious time off from my Cuba photography tour group – to explore more of this fascinating and historical city on my own. Just me, my camera, good walking shoes, a map & guidebook – and an umbrella just in case!
The weather – being the end of May – was hot and humid. After walking along Havana’s famed and scenic Malecon (sea-side avenue) for quite a while, I turned away from the ocean to walk some back streets. I was on my way – but certainly in no hurry! – to visit Callejón de Hamel, a two-block-long alley of funky street murals, brightly painted buildings and sculptures that looked really cool in the pictures.
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- Click all photos to enlarge
But first, I was anxious to get away from Havana’s tourist zones and walk through some of its residential streets, witnessing the daily life of its citizens. I also loved seeing and photographing the colorful, often crumbling old buildings of Havana and vintage American cars from the 1940s and 50s still plying the streets – both classic Havana icons.
As I walked down one of the streets, I was drawn to a friendly Cuban woman hanging out with an adorable little girl in the doorway of one of the homes. Naturally, I had to stop to chat (luckily speaking some Spanish) and ask if I could take their picture. I learned from Maria 
that this captivatingly beautiful little girl was her 2-year-old granddaughter Eliany.
It was now around noon. Right after taking my “doorway photo” (one of my favorites!), it began to sprinkle. Maria invited me to join her and Eliany as they headed back across the street to their home. Good thing I said yes! It wasn’t long before the sprinkles turned into a full-blown tropical storm with pounding rain. And a short time later, thunder and lightning began to rattle the skies.
Safely Rescued & Waiting Out the Storm
Maria del Carmen had saved me! Looking back out through her door, I watched the rain come pouring down and the street fill up with water. Right then, a young woman appeared in the doorway, completely drenched to the bone. She turned out to be Maria’s daughter and Eliany’s mother. She was returning from school at the University of Habana, where she was a pharmacy student (having already completed three years of the 4-year program).
Following right behind her were two more soaked people – tourists she had also rescued. Renata and her 15-year-old son were from the Czech Republic, near Prague. They were on a “reward vacation” for the son, with plans to spend two days in Havana before heading to the beautiful beach resort of Varadero. This was their first day in Havana – quite the welcome to Cuba!
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So, for the next hour and a quarter, we happily sat in Maria del Carmen’s home and waited out the storm. Joining us was a family cousin and uncle, who had already been there in the home. We all socialized and, of course, I took more photos to remember the experience. We were enjoying an impromptu Habana Rain Party!
This sweet Cuban family was quite matter of fact about it all. Apparently, heavy rains like this happen a lot during Cuba’s rainy season – which lasts from May to October. And, they just happen to live at the bottom of a long street that slopes downward and fills with knee-high water during these heavy rains. In fact, the water can rise so much that it starts flowing through the front door, like it did this day!
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- Water flowing under front door!
But, no worries! They have a concrete tile floor and can quickly move non-waterproof items like their electric fan up onto their sofa bench chairs. After about 45 minutes of the downpour, the rain began to lessen and the water in the streets quickly began to recede. The menfolk of the family opened the front door and began their living room “water extraction” duty, effectively using a broom and tall plastic water pails.
Safe Again to Venture Back Out
About 15 minutes later, it was finally safe for people to venture back outside. The streets were still wet with many puddles, but no longer flooded. And only very light sprinkles remained. The time had come to say goodbye to our most gracious host family. We took some final group photos. And Renata, her son and I shared our heartfelt thanks to them for being our Cuban Angels and rescuing us from the merciless Rain Gods.
Callejón de Hamel entrance
I was off to visit Callejón de Hamel. In another kind gesture, the uncle escorted me all the way to Hamel’s colorful laneway to make sure I wouldn’t get lost. Luckily, it was close.
Looking back on this eventful day, I felt so grateful for having met Maria del Carmen and her family – not only to be rescued from a Havana rainstorm but to personally experience the incredible vibrant spirit and hospitality of the Cuban people!
I can certainly see why Cuba is such a desired destination! We travelers who are fortunate enough to visit the country all rave about the wonderful Cuban people!
Check out my Photo Essay: Havana Cuba – Colorful, Vibrant and Alluring to see some of my favorite photos from Havana.
I loved hearing about it.
Thanks, Mary Kay. Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks Janet. I’m off to Cuba with Jim Cline on Feb. 17th! Great timing! Alas my Spanish is almost nil! Edie
You’re welcome, Edie and that is great news that you’re going to Cuba next month with Jim. I am jealous! I know you will have a great experience with Cuba and with Jim’s photography tour leadership! I have no doubt you’ll come home with lots of wonderful photos!
Janet,
I loved this story. How did I miss hearing it?
I have some photos of you in Guatemala and India which I will be happy to send you. The India photo is you talking to two school boys enamored of you. Not kidding.
Thanks, Marie! I guess there were so many stories to share among us Cuba travelers? Glad you enjoyed! You bet- I would love to see those photos you have from Guatemala and India. Thank you!
Janet: Great article on Cuba. I find your newsletter very helpful ken
Glad to hear that, Ken! I know you & Lynn are planning a trip to Cuba in late April. May you have great people experiences without the heavy rain. But, hey it’s all part of the experience and it didn’t last long.
Great story. I also love getting to know the locals and took my best photos of life just happening all around me the day I left the resort while in Jamaica. You really get to see how people live and how friendly and welcoming they truly are. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Carolyn. What beautiful words about your Jamaica travels and your experience getting off the tourist path!
Great little story with charming photos. Not sure why it’s so appealing, but it is. A simple but rich experience.
Thank you, Ken. So glad you enjoyed. It was definitely one of those special people-to-people travel moments I’ll always cherish!
Hi Janet – hopefully you will be able to return to Cuba sometime soon. Do you know if USA cruise ship’s are still going to Cuba?. And do you speak other languages? Thanks for sharing your memories.
Nancy Williams
Thank you, Nancy. I am not an expert on Cuba-bound cruise ships, but I happen to have a friend who is going to Cuba in 2 weeks on an NCL cruise with a 2 day stop in Havana. I think the new Cuba restrictions have more effect on independent travelers so tour operators (and cruise lines) with Cuba licenses should be able to continue as before. Yes, I do speak Spanish “decently” so it was helpful in Cuba, but luckily many of the Cuban people speak English, especially in the tourist-oriented areas. However their Spanish accent is very different from the Latin American type I am used to – so it was challenging at times!
I commented last January before I went to Cuba with Jim Cline. I adored the trip, the people, the colors, the vehicles, the houses and more. I want to return with Jim as he knows so many people!
Thank you, Edie. I am so glad – and not surprised – that you had such a wonderful visit to Cuba with Jim. Now you’ve joined the “Cuba fan club” of travelers who fell in love with the country and its people. Yes, I too want to return to Cuba. And, you’re so right about Jim!
Loved to read about Cuba many years ago I worked for a firm that exported to Havana, Cuba also Mexico: & Guatemala: Would have loved to visit them all: But now I am too old: BUT I have travelled: My son, worked in Australia and sent for us (his Parents) we really enjoyed it and lots more places too: I tell people: There is a big world out there, get out and see as much as you can:
NOTHING beats meeting people from their own country and finding out how they live. J G
Thank you so much, Jill for writing & for your great comment about Cuba and the power of travel! So glad you had a chance to do some good travel when you were younger. Now your eyes are even wide open and you can still enjoy “armchair travel” by reading accounts like this one and others. So many great travel stories out there now on the world wide web!